This leads us to the issue of VINs and codes on the body, warranty plate, body buck tag, or certification sticker. Ever since enthusiasts began restoring Mustangs in the late '70s, they've been making changes to these hot collectible automobiles. Enthusiasts have changed colors, drivelines, axle ratios, interior colors, and more. This begs the question: what's proper and legal, and what isn't?
The body buck tag was used as a communications tool for the body shop at the Dearborn, Michigan, and Metuchen, New Jersey, assembly plants from 1966 and later. Some late '65 Mustangs built at Dearborn also had them. San Jose used them for a short period on the '70 model year only. | 
The body buck tag also serves as a means of vehicle identification, although it is not officially recognized that way. These are both Metuchen, New Jersey, body buck tags, one on a '66 and the other on a '67 in the same location. |
Having the original bill of sale helps identification efforts. So does having a bill of sale from the seller, even when you've purchased a salvage vehicle. The bill of sale should be notarized for your own peace of mind. | |
Restoring a Mustang to deliberately commit fraud is unethical. Fraud is purchasing an A- or K-code '65-'66 Mustang and adding GT components, then selling it as a Mustang GT without telling the buyer. The same thing can be said for someone who buys a '69 Mustang SportsRoof and turns it into a Mach 1, then doesn't tell the buyer. Any way you slice these scenarios, they become fraud when you don't tell the buyer the truth, even if you stand to get a lower offer in the process. You rarely gain anything by selling a vehicle under false pretenses. If the buyer learns of it, you could be sued. You may also face criminal charges if the fraud is outside the law.
Fraud becomes even more involved when you alter a vehicle identification number to make a classic Mustang something it wasn't to begin with. This includes changing anything about the VIN by using a different engine or body serial code. Forexample, taking a '69-'70 SportsRoof and changing the engine code to G to make it a Boss 302 or changing the 02 to 05 to make it a Mach 1. The technology is out there to do these things, but getting caught can get you in hot water.
Vehicle identification and security begin before you purchase the vehicle because once you have handed over the cash and received the title, it's yours. You do have the option of suing if the car is a proven fake or isn't everything the seller says it was, but do you really want to go through all that? Cover your bases and make sure the VINs match, including the engine number. Always assume the car isn't everything you're told it is. | 
Body buck tag locations vary from year to year and plant to plant. From '66 to '67, they're on the inner fender aprons by the hood hinges on Dearborn and Metuchen units. From '68 and up, they're on the front radiator support. |
Mustang purchases are out there in all forms, both finished and unfinished. When you are buying a Mustang in a basket, check everything. All numbers must match--body, plates, and title. When possible, take the VIN and check state motor vehicle records first. | |
Cutting the VIN out of the inner fender apron and welding it into the inner-fender of another Mustang is also Federal fraud. This is reassigning the VIN of one Mustang to another Mustang, also known as "rebodying" a restoration. When this happens, you are breaking federal law. It becomes a felony and potential prison time if you're caught. Although we know it happens with some regularity, we strongly discourage this practice.
While we're on this subject, we want to clarify the practice of stamping the VIN into an engine block or other driveline component. If you're restoring a classic Mustang and the factory stamped the vehicle's VIN into the block ('65-'67 289 High Performance and all '68-up), consider this practice only when the block casting date and number match the vehicle's build period prior to the scheduled build date. It should never be practiced with a replacement block that's obviously a replacement. For example, a '69-'70 Boss 302 with a '71 service replacement block isn't an engine you would stamp with the VIN because it's obviously a service replacement. In any case, always tell the buyer it isn't the original block when the engine has been replaced. This enables you to sleep comfortably and keeps your reputation intact.
From '68 and up, all engines are stamped with the VIN at the back of the block (on top, behind the intake manifold). If the seller claims it's the original engine, check the VIN. Casting date codes and numbers are also a good way to confirm originality. | 
Are you buying a real or bogus Mustang GT? There are probably more bogus GTs out there than Ford built to begin with. Check the car before buying. If you've been stung by a bogus buy, we suggest checking with a trusted attorney to evaluate your options. When it's time to sell, be honest with potential buyers. It keeps you in the clear. |
Obviously, this Mach 1 has seen better days, but there's potential here for anyone with vision. That's why you must first check the details and make sure all numbers match. | |
We're including a complete listing of state motor vehicle bureaus from all 50 states. Before you buy a Mustang and undertake a restoration, play it safe and check the motor vehicle laws in your state. This keeps you in the clear and keeps us all honest.